HOME
BUYER’S PRIMER
Buying
a home can be one of your most significant investments in life. Not only
are you choosing your dwelling place, and the place in large portion of
your assets into this venture. The more prepared you are at the outset,
the less overwhelming and chaotic the buying process will be. The goal of
this page is to provide you with detailed information to assist you in
making an intelligent and informed decision. Remember, if you have any
questions about the process, I’m only a phone call or email away!
The
Best Investment
As a fairly
general rule, homes appreciate about five percent a year. Some years will
be more, some less. The figure will vary from neighborhood to
neighborhood, and region to region.
Five percent
may not seem like that much at first. Stocks (at times) appreciate much
more, and you could earn over six percent with the safest investment of
all, treasury bonds.
Look
At It This Way
Presumably,
if you bought a $200,000 house, you did not pay cash for the home. You got
a mortgage, too. Suppose you put as much as twenty percent down – that
would be an investment of $40,000.
At an
appreciation rate of 5% annually, a $200,000 home would increase in value
$10,000 during the first year. That means you earned $10,000 with an
investment of $40,000. Your annual "return on investment" would be a
whopping twenty-five percent.
Of course,
you are making mortgage payments and paying property taxes, along with a
couple of other costs. However, since the interest on your mortgage and
your property taxes are both tax deductible, the government is essentially
subsidizing your home purchase.
Your rate of
return when buying a home is higher than most any other investment you
could make.
If you are
moving to a home for the first time, you are going to be very pleased with
all the new space you have available. You may have to even buy more
"stuff."
Income Tax Deduction
Because of
income tax deductions, all of the interest and property taxes you pay in a
given year can be deducted from your gross income to reduce your taxable
income.
For example,
assume your initial loan balance is $150,000 with an interest rate of
eight percent. During the first year you would pay $9969.27 in interest.
If your first payment is January 1st, your taxable income would
be almost $10,000 less – due to the IRS interest rate deduction.
Property
taxes are deductible, too. Whatever property taxes you pay in a given year
may also be deducted from your gross income, lowering your tax obligation.
Stable Monthly Payments
When you
rent a place to live, you can certainly expect your rent to increase each
year – or even more often. If you get a fixed rate mortgage when you buy a
home, you have the same monthly payment amount for thirty years. Even if
you get an adjustable rate mortgage, your payment will stay within a
certain range for the entire life of the mortgage – and interest rates
aren’t as volatile now as they were in the late seventies and early
eighties.
Imagine how
much rent might be ten, fifteen, or even thirty years from now? Which
makes more sense?
Some people
are just lousy at saving money, and a house is an automatic savings
account. You accumulate savings in two ways. Every month, a portion of
your payment goes toward the principal. Admittedly, in the early years of
the mortgage, this is not much. Over time, however, it accelerates.
Second, your
home appreciates. Average appreciation on a home is approximately five
percent, though it will vary from year to year, and in some years may even
depreciate.. Over time, history has shown that owning a home is one of the
very best financial investments.
Avoid Financial Changes During the Home Buying and Loan Process
When a
lender reviews your loan package for approval, one of the things they are
concerned about is the source of funds for your down payment and closing
costs. Most likely, you will be asked to provide statements for the last
two or three months on any of your liquid assets. This includes checking
accounts, savings accounts, money market funds, certificates of deposit,
stock statements, mutual funds, and even your company 401K and retirement
accounts.
If you have
been moving money between accounts during that time, there may be large
deposits and withdrawals in some of them.
The mortgage
underwriter (the person who actually approves your loan) will probably
require a complete paper trail of all the withdrawals and deposits. You
may be required to produce cancelled checks, deposit receipts, and other
seemingly inconsequential data, which could get quite tedious.
Perhaps you
become exasperated at your lender, but they are only doing their job
correctly. To ensure quality control and eliminate potential fraud, it is
a requirement on most loans to completely document the source of all
funds. Moving your money around, even if you are consolidating your funds
to make it "easier," could make it more difficult for the lender to
properly document.
Don’t Make Any Major Purchases
When
determining your ability to qualify for a mortgage, a lender looks at what
is called your "debt-to-income" ratio. A debt-to-income ratio is the
percentage of your gross monthly income (before taxes) that you spend on
debt. This will include your monthly housing costs, including principal,
interest, taxes, insurance, and homeowner’s association fees, if any. It
will also include your monthly consumer debt, including credit cards,
student loans, installment debt, and car payments.
Are
You Ready? Let’s Make an Offer
When you
prepare an offer to purchase a home, you already know the seller’s asking
price. But what price are you going to offer and how do you come up with
that figure?
Determining
your offer price is a three-step process. First, you look at recent sales
of similar properties to come up with a price range. Then, you analyze
additional data, such as the condition of the home, improvements made to
the property, current market conditions, and the circumstances of the
seller. This will help you settle on a price you think would be fair to
pay for the home. Finally, depending on your negotiating style, you adjust
your "fair" price and come up with what you want to put in your offer.
Comparable Sales
The first
step in determining the price you are willing to offer is to look at the
recent sales of similar homes. These are called "comparable sales."
Comparable sales are recent sales of homes that compare closely to the one
you are looking to purchase. Specifically, you want to compare prices of
homes that are similar in square footage, number of bedrooms and
bathrooms, garage space, lot size, and type of construction.
If the home
you are interested in is part of a tract of homes, then you will most
likely find some exact model matches to compare against one another.
There are
three main sources of information on comparable sales, all of which are
easily accessed by a real estate agent. It is somewhat more difficult for
the general public to access this data, and in some cases impossible. Two
of the most obvious information sources are the public record and the
Multiple Listing Service.
Comparing Recent Sales
The most
accessible source of information on comparable sales is the public record.
When someone buys a home the property is deeded from the seller to the
buyer. In most circumstances, this deed is recorded at the local county
recorder’s office. They combine sales data with information already known
about the property so they can assess property taxes correctly.
Provided
there have been no additions to the property, the information available
from the public record is usually correct regarding sales price, square
footage, and numbers of rooms. This makes it easy to use the public record
as a source of data for comparable sale information.
Accessing
the data is another matter, at least for the general public. Realtors can
generally look up this information through title insurance companies. The
title companies either compile the data directly from the county
recorder’s office or purchase if from other companies.
One problem
with the public record is that it tends to run at least six
to eight weeks behind. Add another four to six weeks for the typical
escrow period and you can see the data is not current. The most current
information is the most valuable.
Most of the
public is aware that the Multiple Listing Service is a private resource
where Realtors list properties available for sale. Recently, the public
has been able to access some of that information on such sites as http://www.Realtor.com MSN HomeAdvisor, and others.
Once a
property is sold and the transaction has closed, the selling price is
posted to the listing in the Multiple Listing Service. Over time, it has
become a huge database on past sales, containing much more information on
individual homes than can be gleaned from the public record. This
information is only available to real estate agents who are members of the
local Multiple Listing Service. I will provide you with this data to help
determine your offer price.
Gathering
and analyzing information from comparable sales helps to establish the
range of prices you should consider when making an offer to buy a home.
More weight should be given to the most recent sales, but even so, you
need to do a bit more analysis before setting upon the price you will
offer. That is because you also need to consider the condition of the
property, improvements, the current market, and the circumstances behind
the seller’s decision to sell.
Even when
comparing exact model matches within a tract of homes, you should note
whether the previous owners have made any substantial improvements.
Cosmetic changes should be largely ignored, but major improvements should
be taken into account. Most important would be room additions, especially
bedrooms and bathrooms. Other items, like expensive floor tile or swimming
pools should be taken into account, too, but should be discounted. A pool
that costs $20,000 to install does not normally add $20,000 in value to
the home. Rely on your agent to give you guidance in this area.
Be
Prepared to Act Quickly
A hot market
is a "seller’s market." During a seller’s market, properties can sell
within a few days of being listed and there are often multiple offers.
Sometimes homes even sell above the asking price. Though
most buyer’s want to get a "deal" on a home, reducing your offer by even a
few thousand dollars could mean that someone else will get the home you
desire.
A slow
market is a "buyer’s market. During a buyer’s market properties may
languish on the market for some time and offers may be few and far
between. Prices may even decline temporarily. Such a market would allow
you to be more flexible in offering a lower price for the home. Even if
your offered price is too low, the seller is likely to make some sort of
counter-offer and you can begin negotiations in earnest.
More often
than not, the market is simply "steady," or in transition. When a market
is steady, no real rules apply on whether you should make an offer on the
high end of your range or the low end. You could find yourself in a
situation with multiple offers on your desired house, or where no one has
made an offer in weeks.
Transition
markets are more difficult to define. If the economy slows unexpectedly,
as it did in the early nineties, people who buy on the high end of a
seller’s market (like the late eighties) could find their home loses value
for several years. So far, no one has proven reliable in predicting when
markets change or how good or bad the real estate market will become.
Determine a base price range for a
particular home. Adding in the various factors like property condition,
improvements, market conditions, and seller motivation help determine
whether a "fair" price would be at the upper limit of that range or the
lower limit. Perhaps you will feel a fair price is outside of that price
range.
The "fair"
price should be approximately what you are willing to agree on at the end of negotiations with the seller. The price you put in your
offer to begin negotiations is totally up to you and depends
on your negotiating style. Most buyers start off somewhat lower than the
price they eventually want to pay.
Although
your agent may provide advice and guidance, you are the one who makes the
decision. The price you put in the offer is totally up to you.
Writing the Offer
Once you
find the home you want to buy, the next step is to write an offer – which
is not as easy as it sounds. Your offer is the first step toward
negotiating a sales contract with the seller. Since this is just the
beginning of negotiations, you should put yourself in the seller’s shoes
and imagine his or her reaction to everything you include. Your goal is to
get what you want, and imagining the seller’s reactions will help you
attain that goal.
The offer is
much more complicated than simply coming up with a price and saying, "This
is what I’ll pay." Because of the large dollar amounts involved,
especially in today’s litigious society, both you and the seller want to
build in protections and contingencies to protect your investment and
limit your risk.
In an offer
to purchase real estate, you include not only the price you are willing to
pay, but other details of the purchase as well. This includes how you
intend to finance the home, your down payment, who pays what closing
costs, what inspections are performed, timetables, whether personal
property is included in the purchase, terms of cancellation, any repairs
you want performed, which professional services will be used, when you get
physical possession of the property, and how to settle disputes should
they occur.
Buying a
home is a major event for both the buyer and seller. It will
affect your finances more than any other previous purchase or investment.
The seller makes plans based on your offer that affect his finances, too.
However, it is more important than just money. In the half-hour it takes
to write an offer you are making decisions that affect how you live for
the next several years, if not the rest of your life. The seller is going
to review your offer carefully, because it also affects how he or she
lives the rest of their life.
Seller’s Property Disclosure Statement
(A 6 Page Report in Arizona)
Although you
have toured the property, looked at the walls and ceiling, turned on the
faucets and played with the light switches, you have not lived in it. The
seller has years of knowledge about his or her home and there may be some
things you want to find out about as quickly as possible. For this reason,
you will require certain disclosures as part of your offer.
Basically,
you want the seller to disclose any adverse conditions that may have a
substantial impact on your decision to purchase the home. This would
include any problems with the house, whether the property is in a flood
zone, a noise zone, or any other kind of hazardous area.
If you have
an agent representing you, this is almost automatic, but many states do
not require individuals selling their own home to provide you with this
information. Often they do not require banks selling foreclosed property
to provide these disclosures, either. Obtaining these types of disclosures
should always be a part of your offer, and time is of the essence.
I
Always Recommend a Professional Home Inspection
Besides
appraisal and the termite inspection, you should also have a professional
go through the house and seek out potential problems. Of course, you will
have inspected the home, but you are not used to looking at some things
that a professional will find. Even if they are not things the seller is
expected to repair, at least you will have foreknowledge of any potential
problems.
The seller
will want this inspection performed quickly, so that you can approve the
results and move forward with the purchase. Once you receive the
inspection, you will want to allow yourself sufficient time to review and
approve the report. If you do not approve the report, you may negotiate
with the sellers on which repairs should be performed and who should pay
for those repairs. Otherwise, you can cancel the purchase without penalty,
provided you have included timetables in your offer.
What
Price is Right For You. It is Your Decision
Comparable sales information helps you to
decide.
  
Contact Lea Archer
Phone: 623-544-8518
Direct: 623-640-8008
Toll Free: 800-357-6331
Email: LeaArcher@remax.net
Fax: 623-537-2816


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